Today we headed to Frome to catch Baka Beyond in The Cheese and Grain.
If you want to go straight to our review of the gig, scroll down to THE GIG BIT. Cos we are going to ramble on about the FA Cup first.
The Cheese and Grain has been on our radar for a while, but we’ve not actually got around to visiting till now. When we spotted that Baka Beyond, who very rarely gig these days, were playing there, we snapped up tickets.
A quick shout out on social media revealed Flounder, legend of the South West music scene, has an AirBnB within walking distance of the venue, so we duly booked ourselves into his cottage and got on with the business of looking forward to the gig.
Then, out of the blue, Crystal Palace landed themselves a spot in the FA Cup Final on same day. Along with drinking trousers, sun glasses and Gaviscon, Megan packed her trusty Crystal Palace scarf.
We made light work of the journey. The only traffic we encountered was when we crossed over an ancient toll bridge in Bathampton. Flounder’s gaff is down a picturesque leafy country lane on the outskirts of town. I don’t want to intrude too much on his privacy, but the wing of his cottage that is available to rent is modern, comfortable and in a beautiful location. And in this glorious May weather, it is a pleasant thirty minute stroll into town.
We followed the river Frome down into the town centre and were soon having a pint outside The Cheese and Grain. We needed to find a TV though.
Frome is thirteen miles south of Bath and has a population of twenty-eight thousand. The town grew around the production of wool and cloth prior to the industrial revolution. Most of the town centre is a conservation area with many listed buildings. There are a handful of chain shops, but thankfully most of the shops are independent. Over the weekend we fell in love with the amazing Raves From The Grave Record shop, had an unfeasibly delicious French toast in the Black Swan Art Gallery and Cafe, ate a splendid Sunday lunch in the Archangel pub and drank seriously strong Perry in Just Ales Part Two micropub.
We head for The George Hotel & Granary to get ready for kick off. Bizarrely, there are loads of Palace shirts in evidence, and everyone is in good cheer. Full of hope. Daring to dream.
The last time I sat and watched an FA Cup final all the way through was 2008. I sat, stood, jumped up and down, cried and hugged strangers in Wembley when Cardiff City lost a scrappy game against… who cares?
I rarely pay attention to football that does not involve Cardiff City or Wales. But my Croydon born and bred wife is a life long Palace fan. I would have always backed the underdog anyway, but sat next to the emotional wreck that was Megan Evans gave me a reason to be invested in the game.
Back in the naughties, Cardiff had a spell of regular trips to Wembley. FA Cup semi final and final. League Cup final and Play Off final. When you follow one of the big Premiership teams, you get used to big occasions. Blasé even. But when you follow a team like Cardiff it’s a rareity and therefore a big deal. As Johnny Owen said of our FA Cup appareance, “can you really appreciate the highs, if you haven’t experienced the lows”. Cardiff have experienced a lot of lows. In fact they have been relegated to the third division this year. (I refuse to call it League One.)
Palace don’t have many trips to Wembley either, so I get where Megan’s head is today. Their opposition is Manchester City, one of the most successful teams this century. But they have had s dip in form lately, so there is reason for optimism.
It was nerve wracking ninety minutes and for me the man of the match was undoubtedly the Palace goalkeeper. He played an absolute blinder, including saving a penalty.
Manchester City had an incredible amount of the ball. The first half was played almost entirely in the Palace half and at one point it flashed up that City had 83% of possession. But as the old saying goes, it’s all about what you do with that possession. And it only took one moment of possession for the amazing Eze do what he does best for Palace. At the end of the game that one goal was decisive and it was Palace lifting the trophy.
The pub was indeed, ‘Glad all Over’. Strangers were hugged, tears were shed, grins were wide.
We then went on to the gig, the reason we were in Frome, where several people spotted Megan and said, “Oh look! It’s the crying Crystal Palace woman.” More hugs were had. Football can do that, unite strangers.
Oh … and Noel Gallagher – ha ha. Read it and weep son. Crystal Palace 1 Manchester City PLC 0.
Ok….
THE GIG BIT
The Cheese and Grain is one of those venues that keeps popping up on our radar with bands like New Model Army, Dreadzone and Eat Static often gracing the venue. The Foo Fighters and Paul McCartney have played secret gigs here as warm ups for their sets at Glastonbury Festival, just up the road.
The hall was built in 1874 as a market for farm produce, with a secondary use as a community hall. During the Second World War, the hall became a munitions factory, and was then used as a storage depot for tyres, before being purchased by Mendip District Council. At the time, Frome Town Council was looking for a replacement for the Market Hall in the town centre, which was due to be demolished; the hall was handed to the Town Council for this purpose in 1996, before being refurbished and opening on 12 September 1998. In 2002, the venue was closed for major improvements and to install soundproofing to lessen noise nuisance to the surrounding area; it reopened ten months later in 2003, with ownership being transferred to an independent charitable trust. Cheese and Grain – Wikipedia
Prior to the gig I had contacted the venue to establish their rules on cameras. Not only did they say I was OK to bring my camera in, the manager arranged for me to have access to the pit for ‘first three no flash’. This friendliness was also in evidence when we picked up our tickets. They were expecting me and there was none of the usual explaining myself to aloof staff only there for the money. I quickly get the vibe that people like working here.
I can remember the first time I heard Martin Craddick play guitar. It was the summer of 1990, I heard someone playing his old band Baka on a ghetto blaster at a festival. It was an incredible sound of just acoustic guitar and didgeridoo. I had to go and ask who it was.
Later that year I was at a festival in the Forest of Dean and I had taken a tape of the album to give to a mate that I knew would like Baka. I found him in the bar and gave him the tape. He was with another guy I did not know. This stranger seemed interested and wanted to know more about the band. I stood there for five minutes raving about the band before he revealed he was the guitarist in the band. Bastard.
By 1992 Baka were no more and Baka Beyond were formed. They have one of the most fascinating stories of any band I can think of. Mixing Celtic music with music from Cameroon, they raise funds for the Baka Forest people. You can read more of their incredible story in the interview we did with Martin back in 2010… Baka Beyond Interview (2010) – Peppermint Iguana Zine
With band members spread over several continents, live gigs are a logistical nightmare, therefore few and far between. Hence our eagerness to catch them tonight .
Taking up position in the pit I have a perfect view of a band that perform some of the most joyous music on the planet. Vocalist Su Hart has an infectious smile and as she dances her way through the set you can see the audience totally swept up by the positive vibrations she is emanating.
‘World Music’ is a ridiculous phrase. There are so many variations of music around the world, the diversity is so broad, the phrase is almost meaningless. And yet… as Andy Kershaw one said “if there has to be a definition of World Music, this (Baka Beyond) is it”. They mix African, Celtic vibes, with a hint of English folk music to create a truly unique sound that can be understood and appreciated on several continents.
Their sound is complex and simple at the same time. Tunes intricately crafted by consumate musicians from differing musical traditions. But if you step back from the technical proficiency of the music and close your eyes, you are transported to a place where you simply have to dance.
It’s been a while since I last sat down and listened to a Baka Beyond album. The complexity of the music, combined with an afternoon being overserved cider, resulted in me, if I’m honest, not really remembering the set list. I’m pretty sure they played ‘Spirit of the Forest’, ‘Lupe’ and ‘Eeya Be’. And bringing the whole thirty-five year journey back full circle, Baka play Baka, a reworking of the old Baka tune.
Glorious sunshine, an FA Cup win, west country cider, surrounded by smiling faces, a photo pass to get in the pit and gloriously beautiful music. Oh, and staying in a lovely cottage. Weekends don’t get much better than this.
Now then. What else is coming up in the Cheese and Grain?
